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I’ve seen other versions of this and one was pretty neat. Had some sort of slide lock mechanism to tension the belt. I like your idea as it is simple. Wouldn’t take all day to make and shouldn’t break easily.

Won’t the metal dull the bit???

Great hack! Thanks for sharing!

I like this idea

The great thing about this is that I can use the sanding belts I've got leftover from when my belt sander packed it in!

Hey Makers! This idea needs to be expanded! I have a few ideas for the future on my second channel. Check out my other channel! → @makethingswithrob

What the hell is a biscuit joinTer . . . ohhhh, you mean a biscuit joiner.

I just got a ton at the flea market for $3

Any 3/4 inch thick board at least 4 inches wide and 18 to 24 inches long with one straight edge to run along table saw fence (plywood works best). (2) toggle clamps screwed to board to suit length of piece to cut. Clamp down piece, run through saw, straight edge to use for other cuts... done. And safe, without pissing about with secondary fences.

If you are going to hardware store to buy handle you might just as well buy drill predd frame for you hand drill. Those cost like 20-50€/$

I make stained glass and I have a lot of lead scraps would it be good to pour lead into the head of the mallet jack 47 71

Great one, thx Sir! Cheers from Poland 🍻

Wow i thats nice!🎉 I did not know that

Ive also seen a lot of wood workers combine the two and use the saw with the cards

Lots of japanese pull saws have a rip rip side that doesn't have set teeth.

Have one and it does the job, but some care is still needed.

Hey Makers! Check the link on the video to get a flush cut saw without saw set teeth. Check out my other channel! → @makethingswithrob

did you see how far that melamine pulled away from the fence as he was cutting? no way that came out straight.

Or just use a crosscut sled?

To stop breaking your bits your the screws start using your drills more instead of the impact driver

Great video. Any suggestion on: 1.speeds to use wire brush attachment? 2. Where to find pulley configuration for speeds for a two pulley drill press? Not even sure how I would speed up or slow down my press. Thanks!

Or a longer fence. A piece of straightish 2x4 clamped to your fence, cut the face, remove 2x4, cut opposite face, recut origonal face.

Fishing for comments… and it worked.

Table saw wants a flat face and a flat edge. Two surfaces. Anything else is skipping ahead.

Thats slick

DANGEROUS!!!!!!!!!!! PLEASE DO NOT TRY THIS.

Excellent. Thanks

With the handle one I try to clamp it, they're neat tools

Now I feel foolish for buying a jointer

Put some sandpaper on the bottom, or some other grippy layer.

Hey, that's my lathe! I love it! It doesn't have the bells and whistles, but it totally gets the job done.

Joiner

Its not mela yours.

Wow that was one of the best “tips” videos I’ve seen. So many helpful things for use with the lathe. Thanks

Also worth mentioning: french cleats. Especially if you are into diy/learning joinery - you can build a holder for each type of tool and use that as practice

I noticed the saw used is a stationary one so my question is would all these tip and tricks work with my ridgid portable 10" tablesaw?

Or just learn to drill straight. I'll admit that either requires a lot of practice or a naturally good eye but it is possible.

If you need to drill even better holes, do it in CNC machine with carbide tooling

I have an old sears drill with a bubble spirit level on the butt just for this... It works surprisingly well.

OMGOODNESZ THIS IS FREAKING EPIC-!!!! THANK YOU

Now that's handy because sometimes what I need drilled won't fit in my small drill press.

Nice! Id build that on a sled you could change parts out on. The fingering joint was nice but very weak, would be better to put joint. I have a baby 8" wheeler. Going to do one for mine Thanks!❤

I like this tip. Something that can last and make your life easier, but would make your boss go nuts for "wasting time on nonsense".

Hey Makers! If you'd like to see the build for this, check out my other channel → @makethingswithrob

If you keep your blades sharp and ease the tool into the stock, it should eliminate this issue. I always disengage the pins on biscuit jointers. I find they actually make it walk more. If you move slower into the stock, you should be able to avoid walking.

Mela-what?!

Cool

If you use 1970s pegboard ideas, you get 1970s pegboard results. Modern pegboard systems use pins and clips and require very little standoff as a result. Pegboard is waaaay cheaper and waaaay more flexible/adaptable than plywood.

Great tips